From floral-printed loose fitting trousers, to voluminous oversized bags, this year’s spring/summer fashion comes with a variety of practical must-haves and sporty looks. May it be clear, utility is the season’s newest black.

With the 2012 Olympics around the corner, many of fashion’s heavyweights have produced a spring/summer collection with strong references to sports. Miuccia Prada is feeling Tiger Woods during the warmest days of the year, and delivers a collection made up by golf caps, golf inspired shoes, and even Prada-branded clubs. Givenchy’s Ricardo Tisci decides to channel his inner Kelly Slater, through a surfer-inspired collection which sees bird of paradise prints, and sporty key-rings as one of the main must-have accessories. Since sport is the name of the game this season, it goes hand in hand with hybrid fabrics and a loose fit, which will allow you to dress sharp without having the feeling of restraint. This means, no to bow ties and other kinds of unnecessary pretty boy accessories, and yes to simplicity, monochrome blazers, and flexible sneakers.

PRADA golf shoes - not just for the golf course

In order to keep things sporty without sacrificing your style credentials, casual jerseys and baseball caps should be paired up with dressy blazers, which makes it easy to transition these outfits from a casual occasion into a more formal one. Combining knee shorts with a well-tailored blazer, (try Boglioli) is also a way of nailing the laid-back summer look, without creating the impression of trying too hard.
In addition to this transitional dressing, it’s the heavy-soled gladiator sandals which seem to be every designer’s collective inspiration this season, and combining the breezy footwear with a neat sand coloured suit, has never been more acceptable.

Dsquared2 thick soled sandals

Roberto Cavalli mustard yellow suit

Among all the sporty looks which make casual the new chic, there’s also a flashback to last year’s trend of colour blocking. Dsquared2′s Dean and Dan mix and match a variety of colours this spring, with a colour palette consisting of orange, blue, and a pinch of purple here and there. The most signifying colour for 2012′s Spring/Summer season however, is mustard-yellow. For a bold statement, go all the way by rocking the mustard with the help of a two-piece suit. For less of an in-your-face – approach, one can just put all focus on these bright trousers, by combining them with neutral coloured pieces.

However, if flashy colours just aren’t your cup of tea, there’s other ways of leaving a lasting impression without going Colonel Mustard. Oversized bags are the real deal it turns out, and not just for travelling. Whether you fancy a canvas one with leather detailing that boosts up your resort look, or a larger than life backpack for an active day trip, this stylish must-have will unarguably bring the heat to your summer days.

• SHOP PRADA MENSWEAR
• SHOP GIVENCHY MENSWEAR
• SHOP DSQUARED2 MENSWEAR
• SHOP ROBERTO CAVALLI MENSWEAR

Declan Eytan, is a Milan based men’s fashion journalist and regular contributor to L’UOMO VOGUE (Men’s Italian Vogue), and the international editions of GQ, Esquire and Playboy magazines.

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Declan Eytan, is a Milan based men’s fashion journalist and regular contributor to L’UOMO VOGUE (Men’s Italian Vogue), and the international editions of GQ, Esquire and Playboy magazines. Here, he presents a round up of the key designer collections seen during the recent Milan Fashion Week for men – and his predictions on what we’ll be wearing for AW12.

The Autumn/Winter 2012 collections of Men’s Fashion Week Milan taught me that animal skins aren’t just for Cruella de Vil and trophy wives, and oversized shearling coats are likely to become every man’s best friends during the cloudy days of late 2012.

Italy is a country in which its people are stuck on tradition and routine… And the same can be said about its fashion. For many seasons the same two-button blazers have come down the Milan runways, with typical Italian narrow tailoring, and brown classical wing-tip shoes used as finishing touch. The tide has turned however, and judging by the looser tailoring and use of animal skins in the new autumn/winter collections, it seems that looking bold, has been named the new black. This means prints over solid grey, ankle boots instead of wing-tips, and leather portfolio cases (to carry your latest Ipad or MacBook of course) are the new briefcases.

The quickest way to nailing this whole modern dandy winter look, is simply “velvet”. The Milan runways were ambushed by the woven fabric, from low-crotch trousers to double-breasted jackets. It was particularly pleasant to see the double-breasted jacket being so strongly represented – as I believe it’s still one of the most underrated garments from the men’s wardrobe, despite the fact that its horizontal buttons exude much more timeless luxury than the regular blazer. And instead of opting for tweeds, or simply cotton, fur and exotic wools were the main choice of fabric for this iconic jacket.

Burberry Prorsum makes a statement with luxurious accessories.

Besides the fabrics, it will be all about the little details next fall. Designer Sergio Corneliani told me backstage at his show, that contrary to popular belief, the Italian crisis doesn’t cause people to invest in classic pieces, “It makes people want to invest their money into something one of a kind,” he said. This type of ‘one of a kind’ was spotted in abundance at at the Burberry Prorsum show, where it was the biker-style leather gloves that caught everyone’s attention, even more so than the purple padded Winter jackets that reached down to the waist. Dolce&Gabbana went for a slightly less flashy approach when it came to details, by applying golden threads of hand-embroidered brocades to their blazers, in a collection which felt like watching a Baroque painting in live motion.

Dolce & Gabbana Embroidered Blazer

Angora sweater by DSQUARED2

The last day of Milan’s Menswear week was highlighted, as usual, by the Canadian twin brothers behind DSQUARED2. Dean and Dan Caten went for a rebellious school boy theme, and produced a show which saw models coming down the runway with burning cigarettes, dirty denim, and the occasional leather jacket. Nevertheless, it wasn’t the cigarettes that made the brothers’ show worth the watch, it was the super-cozy angora sweaters used in the collection, that make a man crave autumn already.

• SHOP PRADA MENSWEAR
• SHOP DOLCE&GABBANA MENSWEAR
• SHOP DSQUARED2 MENSWEAR

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Now it’s not often I get excited, but this was a rare opportunity, the archive is not open to the public and we were now being invited to visit! Not being one to waste an opportunity we asked if we could fit in a visit that day, cue a couple of phone calls and he’d arranged for someone to show us around that afternoon.

A trip across London ensued, after a quick catch up with Jason Dike, we walked eagerly down Savile Row, admiring the grand old buildings of traditional tailoring houses. We were greeted by Simon, who genially showed us the way through the shop (Although we feel that the word “shop” does not do No 1 Savile Row justice, it’s more like a cathedral, a testament to enduring style).

Up the stairs on the mezzanine overlooking the shop floor is the military outfitters part of Gieves & Hawkes. Up here you’ll find examples of the dress uniforms provided by our esteemed hosts through the ages, covering all three sections of the Armed Forces. The word “impressive” doesn’t do the uniforms of Gieves & Hawkes justice and by the time we reach the Archive proper I’m already astounded by what I have saw.

For the uninitiated, G&H are not only a purveyor of bespoke garments par excellence they are also suppliers of military uniforms and have been going back to 1771.

I don’t want to get bogged down in a history lesson my dear reader, but the salient points are that Lord Nelson died in Gieves & Hawkes, Prince Charles wears G&H, Michael Jackson, yes the Michael Jackson, wore Gieves and Hawkes dress uniforms, The Household Cavalry is fitted out in G&H and explorer Robert Falcon Scott was also a customer.

It’s a funny thing, the dress uniforms (The one worn by officers to events as opposed to the service uniform worn during action) are truly beautiful items. The crimson reds and rich blacks draw the eye and I found myself simply staring at them. And then you see the amazing detail work, the gold braiding etc. These are works of art.

In amongst the dress items are other, more functional pieces, including a simple Safari Jacket, complete with a pith helmet (link) and a pair of binoculars draped around the mannequin’s neck.

It’s this juxtaposition between highly stylised, ornate dress uniforms and functional military garments that really brings home what G&H are all about; Functional luxury. After all not many people purchase red tunics for anything other than very special occasions, however a typical G&H bespoke suit is generally going to be worn at least a couple of times a week over a couple of decades. As such they are the very definition of “you get what you pay for”.

It is that cost/per wear ratio that makes what initially seems like exceptional luxury, turn out to actually be an exceptional investment. It’s that timeless luxury draws in people, from Royalty and pop-stars to fathers bringing their sons for their first suits, which we covet the most.

Of course the dress uniform business of G&H is highly specialised and is something they offer out of tradition, it’s the bespoke and tailoring avenues that most people will travel down. But the influence of the military style upon your average G&H customer is subtle in its evidence.

A good place to start would be the impeccably polished shoes, courtesy of “The Shoe Snob”, the last time I saw shoes polished so well (Other than my own obviously) was when my Uncle was a senior officer in the Royal Air Force. After that it would be the sharply pressed trousers, no tramlines in evidence. Finally the perfectly tied neckwear, no oversized Windsor knots or ultra skinny four in hands here.

You cannot deny G&H their place in the history of men’s clothing, let alone the distinct worlds of “fashion”, “style” and “uniforms”. You have to ask yourself do you want to be part of that history? If you adhere to one of our style maxims “always the best” then you will, and you’ll pay No1 Savile Row a visit and let the wonderful staff show you why they are a prime example how absolute best will always endure.

**Apologies for the reflections in some of the images, I only had a compact camera with me**

Nattily dressed in their own cravats, scarves and ties, we are introduced to the Peckham Rye team who remind us what it means to have true gent’s style when it comes to neckwear. The guys are all Londoners born and bred and are reintroducing their tailoring line which will offer customers the opportunity to have a made to measure suit for £750. Tailoring is not new to the brand and Martin has quite a fascinating and colourful family history which I would encourage you to ask him about when you visit his store.

I challenge Martin that the price seems cheap though at £750 for a made-to-measure suit. Especially considering this is the West End of London… Having an uncle who is a tailor myself, I pluck up the courage to ask him if he is simply emailing measurements over to China and awaiting shipments back to sell to his customers with vague allusions to British manufacture. NO. It’s all going to be made in the UK by experienced tailors and the cloth will be from the exceptional fabric house, Dormeuil. For anyone who knows bespoke, you will know that Dormeuil cloth is up there with the best of them when it comes to fabric. The cut of the jacket he shows me is sharp and British; AKA ‘the London cut’ as he explains to me. It looks wonderful with one of the brand’s knitted silk ties (also made in England) on the mannequin, as shown on the pic above.

If you are new to the world of ‘bespoke’ (which means entirely made from scratch to your body specification) and ‘made-to-measure’ (which means patterns are amended to suit your shape and size and will still look the business but for a lesser price) and would like to investigate a made-to-measure suit, we would not hesitate to recommend you stopping by Peckham Rye where you will be guided through this process by a friendly team of down-to-earth East Londoners.

www.peckhamrye.com

Nor is this ‘bandwagon jumping’, stocking a few bits of entry-priced Grenson to simply please those who’ve recently discovered Northampton footwear. Today the company launches its ‘Shoes Libraries’ concept which allows us to get different styling ideas depending on what outfit you might be wearing (e.g. smart jeans, casual jeans, chinos etc). A lot of gents will benefit from this as some often buy a shoe because they like it, which is a good thing of course, but then not really understand how to wear it. More interesting to those ‘Level 2′ shoe geeks and obsessives will be the ‘anatomy’ guides, pictured above, detailing the individual components and idiosyncrasies that relate to each different men’s shoe styles.

Grenson at my-wardrobe.com

An AW11 exclusive Tricker's brogue at my-wardrobe.com.

When I met with Lee Douros, Head of Menswear Buying for my-wardrobe.com, at London Fashion Week earlier this year, his love of the tradition of ‘Made in England’ footwear was absolutely clear. At last count I am told he has 9 pairs of Tricker’s. So when you are such a loyal customer and responsible for the brands that my-wardrobe.com stocks, it makes perfect sense to collaborate with your favourite shoe brand. I did berate Lee for not stocking any UK 12s though…

Here’s how such a collaboration goes each season:

“For me the process starts with a stroll to the Northampton factory, which is a proper old style workshop really, all smoky windows and benches, and you can see all the stages in the shoe making process going on in there. What’s great about it is that there are about 50 people working at this factory and it’s a real mix of young and old. It’s great to see the skills are being preserved.

Then it’s all about making the shoes. There are nine steps in the process. I start by picking the last, which is the shape of the upper. Then it’s the fabric, then the colour. There is a choice of over 50 colours in leather and 30 more in suede, so this takes a while. I wanted a countryside feel, so we’ve used earthy hues in turf green and a spicy curry shade that are not too scary but also lively, rich and a little preppy. We’ll still have our classics in leather and I’m bringing in a white upper with a blue sole and a blue suede with a white sole – and that’s a good link to step four.

Then step four is picking the sole unit, and we’re using the lighter Dainite soles this summer. Dainite soles are traditional flexible styles that are wipe clean and have superb comfort and all-weather grip.

The next two steps are the choices of welt style and welt colour. You know you’re getting quality with Trickers so I’m confident picking whatever style. For a change I’ve used the natural welt for a slightly slimmer effect. Step seven is the choice of lining colour and eight is the eyelets – do we have naked holes or a coloured metal? The ninth step is picking the laces, and on boots there’s actually a tenth step: picking the tab on the back of the throat which helps you squeeze your foot in.

I love it. The Trickers team have been there for decades and the guys get genuinely excited when I suggest new combinations. It’s hard to not get wrapped up in that sort of love for the product.

How people will wear them is what guides the whole process. The looks I have gone for this summer are all well-tuned to team with a cuffed chino, crisp shirt and blazer or a Barbour jacket, knit and jeans. That ability to dress up and down is crucial.”

Visit my-wardrobe.com and the Shoe Library.

MR. HARE

Firstly, we bumped into Marc Hare, or Mr. Hare (pictured above) as his eponymous label is known. When a label is as feted as his is, frequently appearing in Esquire and other international style mags, it’s easy to imagine grand personas and unapproachable fashion divas lie behind these brands. Mr. Hare was exactly the opposite: informally chatty about his line, his views on what people are wearing at London Fashion Week and all the while, able to spot from a mile off anyone wearing his shoes, each time a smile crossing his face as he points them out to us. Although he was not exhibiting at LFW, he tells us he is simply there to check it out. His line continues to be an unusual mix of classics and models which move along the spectrum toward more fashion forward shoes inspired by the various cultural talking points which interest and inspire him. He invites us to his studio for a look at his collection and this is something we definitely will be following up on soon.

Before we leave, he confirms what a well-read gentleman of refined taste he is and tells me: “I love the article you wrote on rude boy style”.

CarreDucker Bespoke - London studio (not Savile Row).

CARREDUCKER BESPOKE

CarreDucker are a bespoke shoemaking duo with a concession based in Gieves & Hawkes of Savile Row. Deborah Carre, one half of the shoemakers, introduces herself, getting up from her workbench to greet us and introduce her label’s shoes and to tell us about how she got started. Seeing all of the shoemaking tools, pieces of leather and equipment lying around, I nervously venture: ‘Is this all just for show with everything actually made by someone else or some company in Northampton?’ Not at all. The shoes she is making will be entirely made by hand on site in Savile Row. Wow. And I don’t use the word ‘wow’ lightly.

There are elegant matt-crocodile leather shoes on display (unlike her Italian counterparts who would typically use a highly polished skin), lizard skins and of course your standard calf-skins all in our presence.

Deborah, quite innocently, tells me her favourite customers are not the Russian oligarchs or the Arab sheiks who so often dominate the clientele of the bespoke artisan, but instead those who might have previously had difficulty finding a nice pair of shoes to fit ‘off the rack’ (perhaps for medical reasons). “It’s nice to see my work can give people confidence in what they are wearing for the first time, and watch them carrying themselves differently when wearing my shoes.”

What a breath of fresh air in the world of fashion to hear these sentiments. And what better reason to become a bespoke shoemaker.

Prices start about £2800 for a pair of fully bespoke shoes to your foot shape and design.

Find out more about CarreDucker bespoke shoes.

Justin Fitzpatrick AKA 'The Shoe Snob', looking smart in a classic pin collar shirt.

‘THE SHOE SNOB’: Justin Fitzpatrick

Next and another VIP in the world of men’s luxury footwear, is The Shoe Snob himself, the American Justin Fitzpatrick who we are introduced to at his shoeshine stand at Savile Row.

For those of you who don’t know his blog ‘The Shoe Snob’, it is exactly what it says on the tin – a shoe aficionado’s affectionate, personal and often philosophical take on the modern world of men’s (high end) shoes and classical style. And boy, does he know his stuff.

So immersed in this world is Justin that he moved to Europe to learn more about the world of bespoke shoe-making and to open his shoe shine concession in Gieves & Hawkes, all in preparation for his ultimate aim to launch his ready to wear men’s shoe collection in AW12. He modestly shows us a dapper pair of his own design that he is wearing. This is one men’s shoe line I look forward to seeing in the near future.

In the meantime, we encourage you to check out his blog.

At the Gieves & Hawkes presentation we had an enjoyable and in depth conversation with Barry Tulip, impeccably dressed as you would imagine, the new Design Director at the ready to wear line at Gieves & Hawkes. Mr. Tulip, previously of Dunhill and Zegna, is ready to bring his own stamp to this grandee of No.1 Savile Row.

Mr. Tulip explains that the brand is firmly focused on investment pieces for today’s man, along the way, resurrecting archival pieces that this Savile Row house is famed for, such as the navy blazer, but in a slimmed down cut and lighter fabric more suited to our air conditioned, office dwelling lives rather than the perils of the open sea. He takes no heed of flashy Italian fabrics or trends that will not last more than a season. It just will not fit the Gieves & Hawkes man. I ask if one will be able to mix and match pieces from the forthcoming AW12 collections with existing pieces and even pieces from a few years back? ‘Of course, that’s the whole point’. (You won’t hear that often in fashion, although it must be said the brand would never describe their ready to wear collection as a ‘fashion’ line).

There is a nod to the 60s with mod style cuts and collar details and super-luxurious fabrics such as mink and Harris Tweed. Also seen discreetly engraved on buttons is the brand’s Art Deco period ‘GH’ logo. Art Deco inspired patterns can also be seen on tie prints silk handkerchiefs.

Traditional British cloths reign in the Gieves & Hakwes AW12 collection.

Gieves & Hawkes - AW12 blazers and jackets.

Interestingly, the collection for AW12 included many items which – on paper – I might have instantly dismissed as unwearable for the more ‘everyday’ man. A dark green Harris Tweed blazer brings to life everything that is so special about these two British institutions: the ancient hand woven tweed almost glistens with lighter flecks of green and reminds me of an emerald that when combined with the modernised shape of the new Gieves & Hawkes jacket makes this a must watch piece for the winter ahead. Also worthy of note is a cashmere and mink mix jacket which will feed the addictions of those looking for their next hit of uber-luxury. Expected price tag? £4k.

Fabrication is entirely bespoke and ‘from scratch’ for the brand. No fabrics are bought ‘off the rack’ from the normal fabric houses of Britain and Europe and everything, including even shirt cloths, is entirely designed by Mr. Tulip and his team. He is designing, in his own words, for the paler Northern European complexion, with muted blues and earth colours, unlike the fashion houses of Italy, where darker skin tones can tolerate louder, bolder colours.

Gieves & Hawkes - AW12 Overcoat - You will feel like the Duke of Windsor in this. A good thing.

Gieves & Hawkes AW12 lookbook shot - featuring a Harris Tweed overcoat.

Another member of the Gieves & Hawkes team, Carlos Singh, overhears we are interested in the notoriously secreted-away archives of their Savile Row store, never open to the public and rarely photographed. A few discreet phone calls later and he demands we visit the Savile Row store on the other side of London where we will be treated to a breathtaking tour of the company’s archives at the upper levels of the store, up winding staircases and through locked ornate wooden doors, another world will be opened to us. A world which includes Admiral Nelson’s uniform, Michael Jackson’s most iconic military regalia and an entire armory of British and European monarchies’ state dress outfits. This is something you will not want to miss.

WITH EXCLUSIVE PHOTOGRAPHS AND FULL REPORT COMING SOON.

The iconic Prada 'America's Cup' shoe.

So, many gentleman interested in style moved away from the Prada Sport brand altogether and made a rule never to wear it as long as The Wrong People were wearing it. We understand that. But the problem is this shoe is a DAMN GOOD SHOE. In terms of iconic footwear staples for men, we would put it next to the Gucci loafer, the John Lobb double monkstrap or the Tricker’s brogue any day of the week.

Another reason we particularly recommend this shoe is that it acts as a bridge for Generation X and Y men who are scared of giving up their trainers (sneakers) for casual wear and don’t feel ‘ready’ to wear ‘proper’ shoes all of the time but are now past wearing the latest Nike or Adidas offering.

THE PRADA SPORTS-SHOE: A HISTORY.

‘The America’s Cup’ shoe is Prada’s best selling shoe ever.

It was designed by Miuccia Prada (of the Prada family dynasty and current Creative Director of the house) for her husband who could not find a decent shoe to wear for sailing. For this reason and various other reasons the shoe is a legitimate and authentic sailing shoe that is entirely fit for purpose and almost indestructible in our experience. It is made from leather and mesh nylon and is fully waterproof, originally designed for the Luna Rossa Sailing Team and with a signature grooved, non-skid rubber sole – this is for when the boat’s deck gets wet.

HOW TO WEAR A PRADA RED TAB SHOE WITH PRIDE.

The America’s Cup is a sports shoe, but in our opinion it should NOT be worn with sportswear if you want to look refined. Dark, straight leg jeans only will work with this shoe. Let the red tab discreetly announce its presence. If you are nervous of wearing logos, let this be the only logo you wear on this outfit. A classic John Smedley knit will work well here. In winter, a navy peacoat on top.

Prada Sport Trainers - (Prada Linea Rossa Collection)

Any of us who’ve seen any of the recent Burberry Prorsum menswear advertising campaigns (for Spring/Summer 12) can’t fail to have noticed the eye-popping colours, prints and knitwear inspired by traditional Kenyan tribal prints and beading.

Prints which have not traditionally been worn by Westerners have been contrasted with Burberry’s always impeccable tailoring and Christopher Bailey’s (the Creative Director at Burberry) unerring quest to re-intrepret and refresh the trench coat and parka each season. Which, he always seems to manage without fail. This summer he shows how to mix up the classic Burberry parka with a colourful tribal inspired shirt.

Burberry Prorsum SS12 - African print shirt.

Burberry Prorsum SS12 - African print t-shirt.

Do not be intimidated by these shirts or immediately dismiss them: ‘Cool shirt, but I’m not African – I can’t wear these’ – these shirts are to be worn in high summer when the sun is out and you can afford to take a risk with what you wear. We are all descendants from Africa anyway, as any anthropologist will tell you.

Just be sensible and keep the rest of your outfit muted, we are going to advise a pale pair of denim jeans, probably by the likes of ACNE or maybe just some simple chinos and some white plimsolls.  If you have been bold enough to wear the coloured chinos doing the rounds over the past year, you are bold enough to wear an African print.

Burberry Prorsum Menswear SS12 - African inspired knitwear.

Next up is Woolrich Woolen Mills, the ‘Italian’ counterpart to ‘Woolrich‘ the American heritage brand known for its heavyweight parkas. Woolrich Woolen Mills is the men’s high fashion interpretation of the Woolrich brand and has gone from strength to strength under the direction of American designer, Mark McNairy.

Again, lots of Kenyan and safari inspired prints are present in the SS12 menswear collection (full range coming soon to MilanStyle, keep checking back) which I previewed last year when I visited the OKI-NI showroom. And while you won’t need to wear the mesh safari cap featured in lookbook shots here, you should certainly think about one of the shirts, as they are going to look super-smart if you have the confidence to pull one off. Note: the nervous or timid need not apply. The range is entirely made in Italy.

Woolrich Woolen Mills - SS12 Africa.

Woolrich Woolen Mills SS12 - African print shirt.

Woolrich Woolen Mills SS12 - African print scarf.

WE’RE ALL AFRICANS!

We’ve mentioned two internationally renowned fashion names so far, London based Burberry and New York based Marc McNairy. It’s easy to believe that men’s influential style starts and ends in the world’s fashion capitals, Milan, Paris, London, New York: but actually, that’s not the case. We recently discovered a small South African based label by emerging designer Laduma Ngxokolo, just 24, who is set to be a rising star on the international menswear scene. His men’s knitwear label ‘Maxhosa’ is based in South Africa and is entirely designed and produced in South Africa, made from local mohair (the ‘wool’ of a goat) and his designs will probably remind you of a Missoni or ETRO – both labels which are often inspired by African fabrics anyway – but with a more authentic, ‘African’ feel to his sweaters and cardigans.

Laduma Ngxokolo - Founder of the 'Maxhosa' men's knitwear label.

‘Maxhosa’ has already received attention from the likes of Wallpaper* and he has exhibited his work in Milan, Paris and London menswear fashion weeks. Unfortunately, the label is not yet available to buy in the UK or indeed outside of South Africa, but Mr. Ngxokolo is currently in negotiations with a London based boutique for distribution later this Spring. The designer’s inspiration? His culture and of course his late mum who taught him to knit as a child.

• Shop Burberry Prorsum menswear
• Shop Woolrich Woolen Mills
• Learn more about Laduma Ngxokolo

Here at MilanStyle.co.uk we have a friend, this friend, like us, is a sartorial aesthete, however I fear he has a crippling problem; he likes everything he owns to remain looking box fresh and unworn.

Now for certain things I can appreciate this conviction, trainers for example should always look pristine (aside from these Maison Margiela trainers pictured above) and t-shirts should always be as white as possible or, at least, not faded. But for near enough everything else, worn in, can look better.

Maybe it’s the Sprezzatura in me, but a worn in, beat up Belstaff Panther looks better than a brand new fresh out of the box one. The same goes with shoes. A nice pair of Tricker’s brogues might look good new, but guaranteed they look better when worn in, numerous layers of polish with a personal patina acquired by you.

Now imagine all those items combined. The look, amalgamated into one. It’s a classic look, raw selvedge denim worn in from fresh, a couple of years old, worn with fresh white t-shirts or an oxford cotton shirt you’ve had for so long it feels more like cashmere, fine merino knits, English bench-made shoes that have undergone numerous re-solings, bespoke outerwear, classic Suisse horology ordaining your wrist.

TIMELESS: Burberry Trench.

Why You Should Invest In Your Wardrobe.

It’s an investment thing. If you are (and if you’re reading this you most certainly are) one of those that invest in your wardrobe, and do not pander to trends like most, you know the value of what you are wearing. Indeed new items decrease in material value with age, but they should increase in sentimental value, scuffs on your jeans from playing with your kids in the park, as I’ve said before your clothes have the potential to tell a story.

WORKWEAR: Dior Homme - Dark Blue Selvedge Jeans.

Don’t be afraid of wearing your clothes, they are to be admired whilst being worn, not whilst they are in your wardrobe. So what if your favourite suede Gucci loafers get marked? You can always buy another pair for special occasions. So what if your favourite Dior Homme jeans get scuffed, they’re supposed to end up that way, after all, denim was made to work in. It’s also a quantity thing. Now we here at MilanStyle will never, ever advocate quantity over quality, however we will adhere to some tenets handed down to us by our stylish forefathers. For example, you should only wear a pair of shoes once a week (this is to allow moisture to dry out) so you should be investing in your footwear collection. You shouldn’t really be wearing your heavy boots during the summer or your suede Tod’s during the winter either (obvious exceptions aside).

The same can be said of trousers, you shouldn’t wear the same pair more than a few times a week. Jeans on the other hand can be worn for days, however we would never recommend this. If you are going to wear denim every day, at least switch between pairs.

'Benjamin Button' looking good in Belstaff, white t-shirt and selvedge denim.

You should also own enough quality outerwear to vary every couple of days; this should also tie in with the weather, you’re hardly going to wear a Moncler Chevalier during summer, but even in winter it more than likely shouldn’t be worn every day. You should indeed have some versatile key pieces in your wardrobe; a trench or raincoat, a blazer, a waxed jacket and a parka of some kind, in fact if you’re like me, you’ll own several key pieces in several colours, and if you don’t, you should invest.

Shirting is another thing that gentleman can abuse. Yes we all have a favourite item, mine is an Oxford cotton shirt that works with everything, I was wearing it today, I am also aware that this will increase in softness with every wash and become even better the more I wear it. However I am also aware that it has a finite life and that it’s not of a weight suited for summer use. The solution? Rotation. I will be purchasing a similar shirt from Brooks Brothers in a lighter fabric to get me through the summer months and next Autumn/Winter; I’ll try and find the same or similar shirt again.

PERFECTION: Brooks Brothers - Oxford Button Down.

Why You Should Rotate Your Wardrobe.

It’s all about rotation and maintaining pieces through the year. We’re all guilty of wearing certain things too much, especially when something looks great on and fits you like a glove. Rotation lets you avoid ruining the things you love and keeps you looking fresh. It also lets you factor in new items and new looks, maybe without the wrench of deserting something or things that have worked for you for so long.

To factor in my original point, rotation is something let’s us keep something looking box-fresh as well as letting us enjoy garments that we’ll have for years to come. We should all aspire to the best, no half measures. With buying the best you gain an insight into quality that mere mortal high-street consumers don’t appreciate (If they did certain voluminous low-end retailers would cease to exist).

With buying quality you are assured that your garments will last up to the rigours of a stylish man’s lifestyle (I assume you jetski to work as a the CEO of Fortune 500 company just like me? No? I jest). In all seriousness most of you reading this will be extremely busy men with demanding lives, working hard to achieve your goals and dreams, so you deserve the absolute best and you deserve to look your best day in, day out.