Any of us who’ve seen any of the recent Burberry Prorsum menswear advertising campaigns (for Spring/Summer 12) can’t fail to have noticed the eye-popping colours, prints and knitwear inspired by traditional Kenyan tribal prints and beading.

Prints which have not traditionally been worn by Westerners have been contrasted with Burberry’s always impeccable tailoring and Christopher Bailey’s (the Creative Director at Burberry) unerring quest to re-intrepret and refresh the trench coat and parka each season. Which, he always seems to manage without fail. This summer he shows how to mix up the classic Burberry parka with a colourful tribal inspired shirt.

Burberry Prorsum SS12 - African print shirt.

Burberry Prorsum SS12 - African print t-shirt.

Do not be intimidated by these shirts or immediately dismiss them: ‘Cool shirt, but I’m not African – I can’t wear these’ – these shirts are to be worn in high summer when the sun is out and you can afford to take a risk with what you wear. We are all descendants from Africa anyway, as any anthropologist will tell you.

Just be sensible and keep the rest of your outfit muted, we are going to advise a pale pair of denim jeans, probably by the likes of ACNE or maybe just some simple chinos and some white plimsolls.  If you have been bold enough to wear the coloured chinos doing the rounds over the past year, you are bold enough to wear an African print.

Burberry Prorsum Menswear SS12 - African inspired knitwear.

Next up is Woolrich Woolen Mills, the ‘Italian’ counterpart to ‘Woolrich‘ the American heritage brand known for its heavyweight parkas. Woolrich Woolen Mills is the men’s high fashion interpretation of the Woolrich brand and has gone from strength to strength under the direction of American designer, Mark McNairy.

Again, lots of Kenyan and safari inspired prints are present in the SS12 menswear collection (full range coming soon to MilanStyle, keep checking back) which I previewed last year when I visited the OKI-NI showroom. And while you won’t need to wear the mesh safari cap featured in lookbook shots here, you should certainly think about one of the shirts, as they are going to look super-smart if you have the confidence to pull one off. Note: the nervous or timid need not apply. The range is entirely made in Italy.

Woolrich Woolen Mills - SS12 Africa.

Woolrich Woolen Mills SS12 - African print shirt.

Woolrich Woolen Mills SS12 - African print scarf.

WE’RE ALL AFRICANS!

We’ve mentioned two internationally renowned fashion names so far, London based Burberry and New York based Marc McNairy. It’s easy to believe that men’s influential style starts and ends in the world’s fashion capitals, Milan, Paris, London, New York: but actually, that’s not the case. We recently discovered a small South African based label by emerging designer Laduma Ngxokolo, just 24, who is set to be a rising star on the international menswear scene. His men’s knitwear label ‘Maxhosa’ is based in South Africa and is entirely designed and produced in South Africa, made from local mohair (the ‘wool’ of a goat) and his designs will probably remind you of a Missoni or ETRO – both labels which are often inspired by African fabrics anyway – but with a more authentic, ‘African’ feel to his sweaters and cardigans.

Laduma Ngxokolo - Founder of the 'Maxhosa' men's knitwear label.

‘Maxhosa’ has already received attention from the likes of Wallpaper* and he has exhibited his work in Milan, Paris and London menswear fashion weeks. Unfortunately, the label is not yet available to buy in the UK or indeed outside of South Africa, but Mr. Ngxokolo is currently in negotiations with a London based boutique for distribution later this Spring. The designer’s inspiration? His culture and of course his late mum who taught him to knit as a child.

• Shop Burberry Prorsum menswear
• Shop Woolrich Woolen Mills
• Learn more about Laduma Ngxokolo

Here at MilanStyle.co.uk we have a friend, this friend, like us, is a sartorial aesthete, however I fear he has a crippling problem; he likes everything he owns to remain looking box fresh and unworn.

Now for certain things I can appreciate this conviction, trainers for example should always look pristine (aside from these Maison Margiela trainers pictured above) and t-shirts should always be as white as possible or, at least, not faded. But for near enough everything else, worn in, can look better.

Maybe it’s the Sprezzatura in me, but a worn in, beat up Belstaff Panther looks better than a brand new fresh out of the box one. The same goes with shoes. A nice pair of Tricker’s brogues might look good new, but guaranteed they look better when worn in, numerous layers of polish with a personal patina acquired by you.

Now imagine all those items combined. The look, amalgamated into one. It’s a classic look, raw selvedge denim worn in from fresh, a couple of years old, worn with fresh white t-shirts or an oxford cotton shirt you’ve had for so long it feels more like cashmere, fine merino knits, English bench-made shoes that have undergone numerous re-solings, bespoke outerwear, classic Suisse horology ordaining your wrist.

TIMELESS: Burberry Trench.

Why You Should Invest In Your Wardrobe.

It’s an investment thing. If you are (and if you’re reading this you most certainly are) one of those that invest in your wardrobe, and do not pander to trends like most, you know the value of what you are wearing. Indeed new items decrease in material value with age, but they should increase in sentimental value, scuffs on your jeans from playing with your kids in the park, as I’ve said before your clothes have the potential to tell a story.

WORKWEAR: Dior Homme - Dark Blue Selvedge Jeans.

Don’t be afraid of wearing your clothes, they are to be admired whilst being worn, not whilst they are in your wardrobe. So what if your favourite suede Gucci loafers get marked? You can always buy another pair for special occasions. So what if your favourite Dior Homme jeans get scuffed, they’re supposed to end up that way, after all, denim was made to work in. It’s also a quantity thing. Now we here at MilanStyle will never, ever advocate quantity over quality, however we will adhere to some tenets handed down to us by our stylish forefathers. For example, you should only wear a pair of shoes once a week (this is to allow moisture to dry out) so you should be investing in your footwear collection. You shouldn’t really be wearing your heavy boots during the summer or your suede Tod’s during the winter either (obvious exceptions aside).

The same can be said of trousers, you shouldn’t wear the same pair more than a few times a week. Jeans on the other hand can be worn for days, however we would never recommend this. If you are going to wear denim every day, at least switch between pairs.

'Benjamin Button' looking good in Belstaff, white t-shirt and selvedge denim.

You should also own enough quality outerwear to vary every couple of days; this should also tie in with the weather, you’re hardly going to wear a Moncler Chevalier during summer, but even in winter it more than likely shouldn’t be worn every day. You should indeed have some versatile key pieces in your wardrobe; a trench or raincoat, a blazer, a waxed jacket and a parka of some kind, in fact if you’re like me, you’ll own several key pieces in several colours, and if you don’t, you should invest.

Shirting is another thing that gentleman can abuse. Yes we all have a favourite item, mine is an Oxford cotton shirt that works with everything, I was wearing it today, I am also aware that this will increase in softness with every wash and become even better the more I wear it. However I am also aware that it has a finite life and that it’s not of a weight suited for summer use. The solution? Rotation. I will be purchasing a similar shirt from Brooks Brothers in a lighter fabric to get me through the summer months and next Autumn/Winter; I’ll try and find the same or similar shirt again.

PERFECTION: Brooks Brothers - Oxford Button Down.

Why You Should Rotate Your Wardrobe.

It’s all about rotation and maintaining pieces through the year. We’re all guilty of wearing certain things too much, especially when something looks great on and fits you like a glove. Rotation lets you avoid ruining the things you love and keeps you looking fresh. It also lets you factor in new items and new looks, maybe without the wrench of deserting something or things that have worked for you for so long.

To factor in my original point, rotation is something let’s us keep something looking box-fresh as well as letting us enjoy garments that we’ll have for years to come. We should all aspire to the best, no half measures. With buying the best you gain an insight into quality that mere mortal high-street consumers don’t appreciate (If they did certain voluminous low-end retailers would cease to exist).

With buying quality you are assured that your garments will last up to the rigours of a stylish man’s lifestyle (I assume you jetski to work as a the CEO of Fortune 500 company just like me? No? I jest). In all seriousness most of you reading this will be extremely busy men with demanding lives, working hard to achieve your goals and dreams, so you deserve the absolute best and you deserve to look your best day in, day out.

INTRODUCTION

Dries Van Noten is often cited as one of most important names in menswear today. His signature style is continental and understand and his colour palette famously juxtaposes  his favored muted colours against vibrant, electric neons.

A menswear designer originally, (later branching out to womenswear), Dries Van Noten, like all the best fashion designers, has a background steeped in menswear tailoring and is the third generation in a family of tailors. This background is easily seen in his menswear collections, and indeed in the very dapper man himself. he Dries Van Noten menswear customer is frequently described as someone who takes an ‘intellectual approach’ to fashion, ‘intellectual’ in this sense simply meaning someone who is thoughtful and considered as to how pieces are worn together. The man who wears Dries Van Noten will not tolerate garish logos or ostentatious branding – for him clothing is about artfulness, considered details and surprising twists to otherwise ‘plain’ items.

Like all of his contemporaries from the ‘Antwerp Six’ designer collective (Belgium’s 80s graduates from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts), Dries Van Noten inspires a cultish devotion, with fans frequently buying his entire collection each season, collecting them as if they were fine art. However, he has no interest in the modern day cult of celebrity which surrounds other fashion designers (typically Italian) and insists his clothes do the talking for themselves:

“I think I tell enough about myself when I make my clothes and when I show them. I don’t need people to buy clothes for who I am; I prefer them to buy things that I create. I don’t want to hide myself — I think I am actually quite open about a lot of things. But my private life has to stay my private life.”

Especially noteworthy about the label is that to this day, he and his label remain entirely independent as a fashion label with no backing from any luxury goods group, yet still managing to be profitable and stocked in the world’s most upmarket boutiques and department stores. This is a particular accomplishment for a fashion house that does not and has never advertised.

Dries Van Noten: Menswear Show AW11 - Outerwear.

Dries Van Noten: Menswear Show AW11 - Classical Tailoring.

BACKGROUND

Dries Van Noten was Born in Antwerp, Belgium in 1958, into a family of tailors with  fashion retail also in their blood.

Between WW1 and WW2, his grandfather reworked second-hand clothes by turning them inside out and introduced Antwerp to the concept of ready-to-wear. In 1970 Dries’ father opened a large upscale fashion boutique in the outskirts of Antwerp followed by a second outlet in the city centre where he sold collections by Ungaro, Ferragamo and Zegna.

As a boy, he went with his father to see the fashion shows and collections of Europe, along the way, learning as much as possible about the commercial and technical side of the profession, both creatively and commercially. However, he soon decided that he was more interested in designing fashions than selling them. In 1976, at the age of 18, he entered the fashion design course of Antwerp’s Royal Academy. While continuing his studies, Van Noten began to work as a freelance designer for commercial collections for a Belgian manufacturer. This practical experience would prove invaluable when he started to produce and retail his own designs.

After graduating, Dries Van Noten continued to freelance before going onto producing his own collection of blazers, shirts and trousers. The line met with almost immediate success on its launch in 1986 selling to prestigious customers including Barneys New York.

In September 1986, Dries Van Noten opened a tiny eponymous boutique in Antwerp’s gallery arcade. Here he sold his men’s and women’s collections, which were initially made from the same fabrics.
In 1989, he quit his modest boutique for a five-storey former department store in the Nationalestraat, and opened his department store ‘Het Modepaleis’ which still trades today.

Dries Van Noten: Menswear Show AW10 - Outerwear.

DRIES VAN NOTEN : A HISTORY

• 1976 – Enrols at Antwerp’s Royal Academy and effectively becomes one of ‘The Antwerp Six’ at this point.
• 1989 – Opens ‘Het Modepaleis’ – a Dries Van Noten department store.
• 2000 – Dries Van Noten moved into the 60,000 sq ft warehouse on Godefriduskaai, Antwerp, which had billeted both German and Allied troops during the war. This six-storey industrial space now houses the showroom and all other business aspects of his label.
• 2005 – The New York Times describes him as “one of fashion’s most cerebral designers“.
• 2008 – Awarded the ‘International Award of the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
• 2009 – Awarded the ‘Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres’ in Paris.

“I don’t like to create head-to-toe outfits. I prefer to make garments for people to wear in lots of different ways. It’s important that they can make the clothes their own and wear them in any way they want to express what they want to say about themselves.”

• Shop Dries Van Noten menswear.

So, no, you won’t find logo-plates, ‘signature brand colours’, or expensive advertising campaigns in GQ or Esquire from Giorgio Brato (and sometimes that can be a good thing, as it keeps your favourite label discreet). What we especially rate about the brand is that the jackets look authentically second hand. Many of us who are into our clothes don’t have decades to wear in a jacket to that incredibly lived-in look that we all want our leather jacket to have. Or just as likely, we have too many to realistically ever wear in any one jacket to such a degree. Cue Giorgio Brato.

All that you need to know is that Mr. Brato has been in the Italian leather jacket making business his whole career, initially making jackets for Italy’s most famous luxury brands and then, branching out to found his own eponymous label in 2002. We’re glad he did.

• Shop Giorgio Brato jackets, bags and shoes.

Giorgio Brato - SS12 Campaign - Men's leather jackets.

Giorgio Brato - SS12 Campaign - Men's leather jackets.

Giorgio Brato - SS12 Campaign - Men's leather jackets.

But of course, Britain is not the only country with a monarchy, and in turn, our monarchy of course is not the only one to issue official warrants to luxury goods houses. Next then, we take you over the English channel to Spain.

LOEWE: BY APPOINTMENT TO THE KING AND QUEEN AND SPAIN.

Spanish brand ‘Loewe‘, pronounced “low-ay-ve”, has a founding date of 1846, marking it out as one of the oldest purveyors of luxury leather goods in the world.

Madrid based Loewe, like all European luxury goods houses, has a complex and fascinating past – stretching back to the Borbón dynasty of Europe, surviving right through the darkest of hours of fascist Spain and through to present day, eventually being bought by the LVMH group (Louis Vuitton) of France. We could go on, and indeed, if you are a man who likes to know the history and pedigree of the brand he is about to buy into, Loewe’s is up their with the best and most interesting of them, even though you may have never heard of this brand if you are from Britain, Northern Europe or America. For those of you who have traveled to Dubai, you will however, have undoubtedly seen its stores in the Middle Eastern’s mecca of all things luxury. In some ways, the brand is Spain’s ‘best kept secret’.

Loewe - Men's satchel.

Loewe - Tan messenger bag for men with the firm's iconic logo.

In terms of quality and craftsmanship, we probably don’t need to tell you that Spain, originators of the Córdoba leather tanning tenique (A.K.A. Cordovan in English speaking countries) has a fine reputation for producing some of the most luxurious and supple leathers in the world. So ingrained in Spanish craftsmanship is leatherwork, that there are records dating back to the 8th century with the crowned heads of Europe demanding Spanish Cordovan leathers be shipped to them, whatever the cost or time period. Loewe, founded by Enrique Loewe Roessber, draws on this expertise and rich Spanish heritage of leatherwork. And in the 1890s, the local aristocracy come flooding to his small back street store in Madrid as his name and reputation grows, where everything is entirely bespoke to the customer’s demands.

In 1905, almost 60 years after its formation, Loewe is finally granted an official warrant, “Supplier to the Royal Court” by the newly married King and Queen of Spain, Alfonso XIII and Victoria Eugenia. Now, Spanish royalty or not, it is your turn to experience this brand.

The products are of course, all still made in Spain, by expert craftsmen, many who have been with the company their whole lives.

Long live Loewe!

Loewe - Logo on men's leather bag. The brand name stands proud with Spain's Royal seal of approval.

I’m always pleased when one of our articles gets tweeted, facebooked or just generally enjoyed by our readers who then spread the word about the original article. One of our most viral articles last year was actually one of our more whimsical sartorial fantasies in which we demanded the return of the smoking jacket for men. In the original article we referred to one of our hero British brands, ‘Derek Rose‘, who are, thank heavens, still manufacturing a Smoking Jacket in that most regal of tartans, Black Watch (the ancient Scottish tartan which anyone is allowed to wear).

Anyway, word soon reached Derek Rose headquarters – a place where one imagines they sip whiskey from heavy crystal glasses, in sumptuous Hugh-Hefner-style attire and just generally get to be ‘fly’ all day – the family owned firm had read our article and were keen to chat to us and showcase more of their range to us, in particular, their range of luxury dressing gowns, or as Americans call them ‘robes’.

Derek Rose - Langley Silk Dressing Gown for men.

Dressing gowns, you might think, are something that the average male will tend to wear only in childhood or in the graceful wisdom of our senior years. I feel this is something which needs to be reconsidered – and quite urgently if you are a gentleman of refined taste. Apparently so too does British Esquire who recently (a 2011 issue) showcased a fashion shoot where a dressing gown was the focal piece. (As pictured above). Yes, if you live in Downton Abbey perhaps you will be able to ‘pull off’ this look more easily, but looking at the picture of Samuel L. Jackson below, who seems about as far removed from ‘Downton Abbey’ as ‘Downton Abbey’ is from ‘The Wire’, I think actually, most gentleman with any real inner confidence in their style will be able to rock a robe.

Samuel L. Jackson in a Derek Rose robe. The first man to make wearing a 'gown' look damn cool.

THE SECRET 3rd WARDROBE FOR MEN.

In all seriousness, ‘loungewear’ as it is known in the fashion industry, or pyjamas and dressing gowns, as you and I probably call them, is actually the secret ’3rd wardrobe’ of menswear. And make no mistake, we need to get this wardrobe just as right as we do our work and casual attire if we are to be taken genuinely seriously as a man of good taste. I don’t need to tell you that you certainly should not be sleeping and breakfasting in an old football top if you think you have any genuine style credibility.

With this in mind, and having been invited to speak with Sacha Rose, part of the family dynasty which has made pyjamas for both genuine royalty – The Queen since you asked – and Hollywood royalty (Cary Grant amongst others), I was excited and prepped after much research to learn about this almost forgotten aspect of true gentleman’s style.

ALEXANDER BAILEY OF MILANSTYLE CHATS TO SACHA ROSE, OF DEREK ROSE LTD.

MS: Tell us about your customer – what type of gent wears your brand?

SR: “It’s the type of man who appreciate that they spend a third of their lives at home or in bed and want to enjoy that time in luxurious comfort. That might be silk pyjamas or a cashmere dressing gown for Sunday brunch. They want style to continue in the comfort of their own home, so being ‘well dressed’ is not something that just happens when they need to leave the front door – they want to be well dressed all of the time.”

MS: Where are Derek Rose products made? All still in England?

SR: “Our luxury products are sill made in the north of England and our core products are manufactured in the Czech Republic with whom we have had a strong working relationship with since the 1930s.”

MS: You offer £2000+ dressing gowns and £200 plus silk pyjamas. What type of customer shops for this product?

SR: “Obviously, it’s a wealthier customer, probably an international businessman or financier. But we also find it can be women shopping for a thoughtul, luxurious gift for their husbands for an anniversary. Those products are made from the most exclusive silks and cashmeres you will find in the world market which means the longevity of these products is incredible.” (N.B. this is the luxury range of Derek Rose that is still made in England).

“Overall, Derek Rose customers vary greatly. But they share one thing in common – an appreciation for quality and style. Our customers are often successful, discerning, and thoughtful individuals who understand the benefits of enjoying one’s free time in comfort and style.”

• Shop Derek Rose pyjamas and dressing gowns

But it took an issue of L’UOMO VOGUE (Men’s Italian Vogue) to get Michael Jackson to fully embrace high-fashion, with The King of Pop looking incredibly dapper in a combination of looks by the likes of Roberto Cavalli and Balenciaga. He obviously took to the Balenciaga label, years later wearing their massive shoulder-padded jacket throughout the rehearsals of his ill-fated ‘THIS IS IT’ tour.

Michael Jackson - L'UOMO VOGUE. Looking regal as The King of Pop should.

Michael Jackson - L'UOMO VOGUE. As only MJ can do it.

In an age of ‘music’ when singers don’t actually need to sing because the auto-tuner does and rappers no longer rap but merely advertise the highest bidding brand, we long for a return to the majesty and artistry, both musically and stylistically as to that of Michael Jackson.

R.I.P. Michael Jackson, King of Pop and Style Icon.

Michael Jackson appeared in the October 2007 edition of L’UOMO VOGUE.
All photographs are copyright to the magazine.

Autograph is the Birmingham (England) based men’s fashion emporium, stocking many of Europe’s, Japan’s and increasingly Korea’s most avant-garde and underground fashion labels. Imraan Ahmed, one of the store’s co-owners and its buyer, tells me: “We don’t really buy ‘fashion’, we buy collections we like regardless of whether it’s ‘in’ or not.”

This is a philosophy and approach to menswear that we thoroughly endorse at MilanStyle.co.uk.

Autograph do stock a handful of mainstream designers such as Paul Smith Mainline (AKA his fashion show collection) and Vivienne Westwood Man though, but typically, these are ‘Autograph only’ pieces, items which you will not find in other stores. In fact, Imraan explains to me that they have such a close relationship with the Paul Smith design house that they are able to get designs ‘re-blocked’ to their own specification. (‘Blocking’ in menswear simply means how a garment is fitted and determines whether it will fit loosely, closely, short, long etc). Imraan knows his customers well and they tend to like their Paul Smith tailoring fitted and slim on the armhole – so he makes sure it is made that way for them.

Autograph Menswear Birmingham - Inside of store

Perhaps more interestingly, the store has provided a UK launchpad for several now very well known European design houses, such as Maison Martin Margiela (who they no longer stock and he refuses to be drawn on the reason why) and Dries Van Noten, a collection they have bought ‘religiously’ for over 22 years. Looking at Autograph’s current selection of Dries knitwear, I can see why.

Personal note: Dries Van Noten – many people have raved about this designer to me over the years, and I have never really understood why until my visit to Autograph. I now see the appeal of the label – subdued, understated and continental. These ‘Antwerp Six’ (Belgian) designers like Dries and Margiella seem to have cult followings by creating garments which don’t date, but at the same time, never quite look like what is currently going on in the world of men’s fashion. So, yes, I am now a Dries Van Noten appreciator.

Julius, also known as ‘Julius_7′ (a Japanese brand despite its European name) sells particularly well at Autograph. For those not familiar with the brand, it is very similar in style to Rick Owens. A washed leather deerskin jacket catches my eye.

Kriss Van Assche is also popular. When I tell Imraan I am bit surprised at these very underground, ‘insider labels’ selling so well in Birmingham,  our experience being that they are most popular in the likes of Antwerp, London, Osaka or Tokyo, he tells me: ‘we have customers travel to our store from Italy and Belgium… Music video stylists from New York’.

Korea is increasingly important to Autograph as a place to source new menswear labels from. ‘The obsessive attention to quality is the same as you would find on a Japanese brand, but the price points are lower.’

Is this just another store jumping on the bandwagon for the current mania of high-end, Japanese brands? Not at all. ‘I lived and studied in Japan for five years’, Imraan tells me, obviously still having genuine affection for the country and its unique sense of style. This affection for the Japanese love of fashion is clear in his own store and the way he buys brands – he tends to know everything about each label he stocks as he excitedly pulls out garments from the stockroom, asking for my opinion on each piece, an hour and a half after I first arrive in the store, his enthusiasm for the subject is still there.

Autograph – Shop Online

AUTOGRAPH
15-17 ETHEL STREET
BIRMINGHAM
B2 4BG

Sometimes referred to as “the cult of self”, “Dandyism” appeared in the late 18th century. Notably the model Dandy was George Bryan “Beau” Brummel, an Oxford student and later an associate of the George IV. In a twist that is heavily associated with dandyism, Beau was not from an aristocratic background, he was from humble middle class origins and yet he strived to imitate an aristocratic lifestyle.

Beau Brummel, if alive today, would be considered something of an “It” man, in the sense that he was famous for being famous (think the cats of Jersey Shore, but infinitely more refined). He was also a trendsetter; by the time William Pitt had placed a tax on hair powder (required to keep your wig looking its whitest) Beau had started to have his hair cut in the style of the Romans. He also led the pack in the change from wearing breeches to to pantaloons, which consequently lead to trousers, which have changed little in the past two hundred years.

To quote Baudelaire “Contrary to what many thoughtless people seem to believe, dandyism is not even an excessive delight in clothes and material elegance. For the perfect dandy, these things are no more than the symbol of the aristocratic superiority of his mind.” At MilanStyle.co.uk we can appreciate the sentiment behind the above, we love our clothes and the finer things in life, however the snob and the Dandy in us does not merely admire said things, we see them as extensions of our pursuit of sartorial superiority.

To move away from Beau Brummel though, many famous people over the years could be considered a “Dandy”, but to save you some heavy reading we’ll fast forward to more recent times and start with the New Romanticism movement of the 80s.

Adam Ant wearing Vivienne Westwood.

DANDYISM IN THE 20TH CENTURY:
NEW ROMANTICISM AND VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

The New Romantic movement that started in 1979 and was centred around flamboyant attire and New Wave Music. This flamboyant way of dressing was a fine example of modern dandyism.

As if by coincidence, New Romanticism started to take off at the same time Vivienne Westwood launched her “Pirates” Collection.

Modeled by New Romantics Adam and The Ants, it was launched from the now famous “Worlds End” shop (formerly SEX). Designed by Vivienne Westwood & Malcolm McClaren, Worlds End resembles a cross between an 18th Century Spanish galleon and a “Ye Olde Curiosity Shoppe”, with a large clock that spins backwards and an angled floor.
 The dress uniform look of New Romanticism resonates throughout the world of the Dandy, the idea of looking good purely for show, over the top and grandiose, it’s something a stylish man can easily appreciate.
 Obviously the highly overt dandyism of the New Romantics during the 1980s isn’t something most people will feel comfortable wearing today, however it is something we can and indeed do, take inspiration from.

Take for example Alexander McQueen’s Autumn/Winter collection from 2011 and Edward Sexton’s creations, both definitely lean towards the dandy side of dressing, with obvious Edwardian and militaristic leanings. Sexton for example has made suits for the musician Pete Doherty, who is a definite candidate for dandy of the century with carefully constructed disheveled demeanor and his penchant for military tunics during his career with the Libertines.

Alexander McQueen Menswear - AW 2011.

Pete Doherty wearing Edward Sexton.

Dandyism is something that every well dressed man should look to for inspiration, we’re not advocating a return to full on new romanticism, but we can definitely appreciate a return to a flamboyant style of dressing and having fun with what you wear. We don’t think it’s something that is too difficult to achieve either; however it should be approached with caution or you could end up looking more like Captain Jack Sparrow than the dashing man about town. Try adding a splash of colour to your Brioni suit with a brightly coloured pocket square or a flamboyant Richard James tie.

Luca Rubinacci.

Maybe you should brave the world of garishly coloured trousers (like the modern dandy Luca Rubinacci, pictured) or invest in a piece of high fashion. Don’t be afraid to experiment with your style, be confident about what you’re wearing and watch the compliments coming flooding in.

INTRODUCTION

Dean and Dan Caten, Canadian designers and twin brothers have created one of the most influential, and copied, labels in their short time as fashion designers and founders of their eponymous label, DSQUARED2.

Their collections represent a high-octane, fast-fashion approach to menswear – not for the faint hearted, the designers focus on redefining their signature look each season. What is their signature menswear look? Perhaps similar in style to Dolce & Gabbana and Donatella Versace’s boldest creations; it’s brash, loud and unashamedly Eurotrash. So this is not the label you come to for elegant, classic suiting (although they do make a splendid tuxedo) but instead you’ll find eye-popping trainers in acid colours, mash-up leather and denim jackets and trashed and torn but beautifully finished Italian denim jeans. Like many of the best designers, they began their own label simply because they could not find the types of clothes they wanted to wear.

“We are our first clients. We both have slim figures and initially began our adventure in the fashion business because we could not find outfits that fit us. Still today we design our collection with what we would like to find in our closets in mind.”

Their motto and founding ethos ‘Born in Canada, Made in Italy’ is not just a gimmicky slogan designed to put on a t-shirt each season, but represents their desire to stay true to their Canadian roots whilst acknowledging that Italy, and Italian manufacture, undoubtedly provided a turbo boost to their career and fashion house. Proud of their Canadian heritage, you’ll find their now signature ‘maple leaf’ (always in red, as per Canada’s flag) proudly emblazoned on many a t-shirt, sneaker, belt or denim shirt of theirs.

If the designers had to define the ultimate items of clothing a man should have in his wardrobe, they advise us to keep it incredibly simple:

“A white button-down shirt and a tuxedo jacket with a nice pair of jeans.”

Dsquared2 - AW11 Menswear Collection.

Dsquared2 - SS12 Menswear Collection.

Dsquared2 - One of the label's signature 'mash up' leather and denim jackets.

Dsquared2 - One of the label's iconic tuxedo and distressed denim combination looks.

BACKGROUND

Dean and Dan Caten grew up in suburb in Toronto and are the youngest of 9 children.

They have been in the world of high fashion since 1984, having moved to New York in 1983 to study at the world famous Parson’s School of Design. In 1991 they moved working first for the Versace house and then Diesel until 1994, when they finally launched their own menswear collection entitled ‘DSQUARED2′.

Their catwalk shows have always been an extravaganza, combining music, theatre and fashion. The unusual pairing of their proud Canadian heritage and its iconography alongside sharp Italian tailoring, together with attention to detail have become the foundation of today’s Dsquared² aesthetic and philosophy. The label has given life to a unique concept of informal and spirited luxury, entirely different to the old European fashion houses in that Dsquared² is never about heritage or drawing from distant archives – each Dsquared² collection is a fresh collection.

Dsquared² : A HISTORY

• 1994 – First collection (menswear) released
• 2001 – The designers create the wardrobe for Madonna’s ‘Drowned World’ tour
• 2003 – Recipients of the GQ ‘Men of the Year Breakout Design Award’
• 2003 – Womenswear collection launched
• 2007 – Flagship store opens in Milan, Italy
• 2009 – The designers receive a star on the Canadian ‘Walk of Fame’ in Toronto

Forget any notions of ‘subdued’, ‘understated’ or ‘timeless’ – this is not the world of Dsquared², this label is about celebrating maximalism, living in the moment, buying a piece because you need it now and just because you like it.  Dsquared² is for the man who dares to break the rules when it comes to ‘dress code’.

“Born in Canada, Living in London, Made in Italy” – Dean and Dan Caten, Dsquared²

• Shop DSQUARED2 menswear.