The Kennedy dynasty is back in the spotlight due to the docu-drama, ‘The Kennedys‘ chronicling their rise and fall, having recently aired in the UK and showing the family at its sartorial best. Known for not only their progressive politics of course, but also their progressive style, this political dynasty showed the world that politicians could be serious, smart and smart.
Bobby and Jackie Kennedy : Sharkskin, repp tie, white pocketsquare.
Capturing the end of the 50s and early 60s iconic ‘Ratpack’ style, with slim lapel suits, striped repp-ties and tie clips, JFK and his brother Bobby Kennedy brought The Whitehouse into a new, media-friendly era. Looking back at archive footage of the brothers’ wardrobes now, and again in the current TV series, (and also seen again in the ‘Mad Men’ HBO series) the suits are almost the opposite of the ‘English’ cut, Savile Row style inspired suits that us Brits are most familiar with wearing.
Classic JFK style with navy suit and white linen pocketsquare
Single breasted, slim lapel, always 2 or 3 buttoned, the Kennedy brothers’ suit jackets and blazers are cut straight up and down in the classic American ‘sack’ style, unlike the English cut which flares out a little to form a more ‘hourglass’ shape. Handkerchiefs (or pocket-squares as our American cousins call them) are a must, and must always be in white linen or cotton, unlike the traditional British handkerchief which is typically patterned, coloured and in silk.
Trousers are of course higher waisted than those generally found today, but this is a good thing, and makes the suit look like it is made for a man, not a boy, or worse, teenager.
JFK and brother Bobby Kennedy demonstrate classic American 60's style in the TV show 'The Kennedys'
Off duty, the look is pure, ‘blue-blood’ American – refined by the East Coast’s traditions of sailing and elite Ivy League universities, a presidential off duty look consists of chinos, navy blue blazers, plain white polo shirts (no logos until Ralph Lauren arrives on the scene in the 1970s), cable knit jumpers, Ray Ban Wayfarers and plain, simple shoes.
At this point we must of course mention Mrs. Kennedy – who knows what influence she held over her husband’s wardrobe – ‘The Kennedys’ drama reveals that she was the first First Lady to have hired her own official designer for her own wardrobe and in her earlier career had been a fashion journalist at Vogue France.
Recreating the Kennedy look.
The 60s have come and gone, but the timeless styles of the Kennedys have stood the test the time. While JFK reportedly initially had his suits made in Savile Row (and was suitably chastised by his political advisers for not using American tailors) he later turned to his homeland for his suiting and outfitting.
While the history books have not recorded who tailored each and everyone of the Kennedy brothers’ suits (in the same way they seemed to have with Jackie) we do know that Brooks Brothers featured heavily as their outfitters of choice.
Brooks Brothers. An article on American style would simply not be complete with reference to this iconic 200 year old house, seemingly almost as old as modern America itself. Like all the best men’s clothiers, the brand was born out of a passion for tailoring, founded by two Jewish immigrant tailor- brothers in 1818, New York, and has since gone on to clothe Presidents past and present, (yes – including Barack Obama at his historic inauguration) the stars of Hollywood’s Golden Age of the Silver Screen and of course many an ‘ordinary’ man of fine taste. Today stores are no longer just in New York but spread across many other wealthy towns and cities across America.
Brooks Brothers is must than just a brand – it is a lifestyle as any American gentleman who shops there will tell you. Now with three stores to serve the UK in London, Edinburgh and Manchester, and a few selected retailers online in Europe available through MilanStyle – this Presidential brand is well worth adding several items of to your wardrobe.
Three cheers to The Kennedys (and Brooks Brothers) then.
